23 June, 2004

Rugby's rural best Way out west, the beautiful Yasawa Islands remain a major attraction for both ends of Fiji’s tourism business – exclusive resorts and budget accommodation. And as with many other parts of Fiji, it also thrives on rugby and manages to produce international-level players. Teivovo editor Jeremy Duxbury travelled to the Central Yasawas and had a hard time returning, such was the level of hospitality. Matacawalevu retains more tradition than most – outside of the New Year festivities playing sport on the rara (village green) is taboo; as is singing, except in church. On Teivovo’s visit to this picturesque Yasawa village, it is late January and the festive season is almost over. Everyone, thus, is using up the last of their vocal chords before February comes along: as one group of voices breaks out in one corner of the village, another nearby replies, almost in competition. The Yasawa Rally 2004 is planned the next morning on the neighbouring island of Yaqeta, and Matacawalevu skipper Takeasi Ratia spends the last few hours of sunlight going through the moves with his team. This is the only month they can practise here; from next week, they have to make the short trek through the woodland to an uneven and irregular-shaped cow field. Beyond the cow field lies the village of arch-rivals Vuaki, who are generally bigger and taller, though Matacawalevu believe it is they who are stronger. The two teams will play the opening match of this unique tournament. The Rally takes the form of a two-pooled 7s tournament with nine teams coming from seven villages in the Yasawas archipelago. All teams except the hosts Yaqeta arrive by longboat, with the Somosomo team from Naviti island in the south needing four hours for the journey. The event, organised by Nacula Rugby Union’s full-time development officer Inoke Nabulivou, has sponsorship from Turtle Island Resort, Blue Lagoon Cruises and Otto and Fanny Doughty’s Place. Nacula’s trip to the Island Zone Championship in Suva last year ended in disappointment, so for 2004 they have decided to concentrate on sevens as a rebuilding tool. After the late-night singing and the ample yaqona, Teivovo rises early ready for the hour-long ride around to Yaqeta. The team has already departed, but the supporters and guest media await fuel from Turtle Island before being able to leave. While this prolongs the departure for an hour and a half, no-one seems particularly concerned, especially as our group contains Lautoka referee Sikeli, who will help run the competition. On arrival at Yaqeta, officials quickly apologise to Teivovo for the state of the field. But to the contrary, we explain, this has to be one of the most beautiful rugby fields in the world – 10 metres from a white sandy beach, coconut trees swaying behind the goal-line, and the pristine waters of the Yasawas all around. Making the pitch rather intriguing is that the beach end sits about four metres higher than the Yaqeta Primary School end and two large sand-bars cut across the top half. In golf terms, we’re looking at a short par three with an elevated green, well-protected by some large sand traps – a magnificent site, more so given the hilly nature of the terrain all around. Though kicking off a couple of hours late, the day proceeds without any major hitches and everyone looks satisfied. In the opening game, Matacawalevu concede an early try against Vuaki but rally back to draw 12-12 for even honours. This sets the tone for the rest of the day’s rugby – raw at times, but some thrilling battles that get the more enthusiastic crowd members running up and down the touchlines waving various items of clothing. Come 5pm, everyone’s ready for the prize-giving, which involves a few short speeches and thank-yous, before Turtle Island Resort owner Richard Evanson hands over the goodies. There then ensues a mad rush back to the beach to grab a longboat before they all push off the sand and head out to sea. And so concludes a quite remarkable day of rugby, played by some of the most gracious and friendly folk one could wish to meet. Leaving this simple life the next day and returning to the bustle of the mainland becomes a bit of a chore. Teivovo hopes to return again soon to see how the new rugby field has developed and to experience more of that marvellous hospitality.

Rugby philanthropist Turtle Island Resort owner Richard Evanson (below) currently pumps around $30,000 a year into the local rugby scene. He funds the development programme and makes sure that one team each week gets a trip to the mainland to compete in the BP Oil 7s Series and other tournaments in Nadi and Lautoka. “We’re trying to give the communities something, especially those that don’t have jobs,” Mr Evanson explains between sips of kava (he’s been in Fiji for 29 years). “Rugby is not only a fun activity but can be very fulfiling as well.” “Each week, we’ve sent a team to the mainland and they’ve done very well. Volivoli Takelo won the Bowl at the Dreketi 7s, then Vuaki made the quarter-finals of the Nailaga 7s, so the standard of our local boys is not in question.” Vuaki villager Jone Daunivucu made the national 7s team last year, and Iliesa Nalawayavi was in the Fiji U21 training squad. A bit of a philanthropist, Mr Evanson has had an area of Turtle Island bulldozed so that they can make a full-size rugby pitch for future tournaments (see photo below). “We shifted about 5,000 truckloads of soil so that the field is cut into a steep bank for viewing. Then we had about 100 kids come along and pick up all the loose stones, so it’s been a real community effort.” Mr Evanson explains that work began about three years ago and the grass-seeds have now been sown, so the field should be ready for use very soon. He has even built a small jetty so that all arriving players and spectators can access the ground directly without disturbing the resort guests. Evidently, Mr Evanson gets pleasure out of being able to help the local communities. He also built a school on the island and ran an eye clinic until everyone had been treated. And he has helped the local backpacker industry get up and running. “We have to try and produce a sustainable economy,” he says. “Our school works with Geelong Grammar in Australia, and we hope it’ll help to nurture future leaders in this area.”